Day 35 - Calm seas never made skilled sailors
Batten down the hatches, settle into a nice cup of coffee because today was amazing!
Neither Captain or I slept well. I hardly ever sleep well before big sail days but last night was different. I was excited to go and the heat and humidity that came with the all-night rain just kept me up all night. I had no trouble getting up early since I wasn’t really sleeping. I had my quiet time with Kona and was back at the boat to wake everyone at 8am. We knew we would have a late start this morning due to such a late night before and since we weren’t going all the way to Beaver Island that was ok. We had some things to tackle before we left, mostly preparing Ciara for the sail of her life so we still needed to get up and get going.
When sailing we can only sail plan a few days to a week ahead based on winds. The weather determines if we sail and where we secure for the night. The forecast is great for Monday and Tuesday with no wind. We can for sure move with motor even if it is less then desirable. We want to make good time to the North Channel so we can enjoy it there and take a safe amount of time to beat against the dominate winds home. The forecast for today was just out of our comfort zone but I really didn’t want to stay another day in Cedar River. As Captain and I sailed planned last night I suggested we put a reef in the main for the first time ever and change our main jib sail to a smaller working sail. Winds were forecasted for us to have an upwind beat of 10-15 knot winds with gusts up to the 20’s. Our standard sails get way over powered and that is why we never go out in it. Finding winds on big water under 10 is hard, therefore has been limiting us. Captain was first a racer, so reefing just isn’t in his vocabulary, I guess. However, with less sail out I was so hopeful we could manage more seas. We decided to not push all the way to Beaver Island in those winds but to make it a few hours closer and take a six-hour aggressive sail to Fayette. It would be a good distance to try out higher winds and we had friends already there beckoning us to visit. At least we would get some sailing in. At least we would be a little closer. And at least we would see Ryan and Teresa on Belefonte! It was a good plan!
To ready Ciara we had lot new preparations and maneuvers to think through. These are always a little nerve wrecking as you are unsure how things will actually behave and things can go bad very quickly while sailing. First preparation was to get the working jib out of our sail locker. The dreaded locker lives at the bow of the ship. You have to crawl through our V-Berth to get to it and, in the case of today, move a lot of heavy bulking things around all at an awkward sitting position. Our over sized anchor, “Dalton” was laying on top. Broken down into three pieces it is still hard to move when the main hook is nearly 60lbs on its own. We found our stern anchor and another bonus anchor we didn’t even know we had! That one got put in the car to take home later. Cory and I got everything out of the locker and with a lot of team work we carefully laid everything back inside in an organized manner. Changing sails won’t be as annoying going forward. The second thing we had to do was reef the main while still at the dock as well. This involves tying down the main sheet at the boom using pre-determined reef lines. Lastly was readying the interior of Ciara by tying down loose drawers, putting up lee clothes and just making sure everything was secure. Captain and I did all this while the three kids made a wonderful breakfast and did dishes. I was pretty sure we weren’t eating underway today. Hint. I was right.
By 10:10am we left Cedar River; just about the time I had hoped we would be leaving. With the predicted winds I had hoped we would make the 6 hours and be in Fayette 5pm with the loss of hour to the time zone. Time to hang out, let the two kids see Fayette for the first time and get ready for another long sail day after.
Soon out of the Cedar River channel we had the reefed main and new jib up and flying. Cory and I had a few issues figuring out the jib but got her up pretty quickly. The seas were already pretty rough. We knew today was going to have some seas so Cory to took sea sickness meds as unfortunately even not so big sails can make them sick.. Cory helped get us all situated and then I went below to marinate dinner for later tonight. I was done with dinner prep and all boat chores one hour into our sail. Even by then, I was being tossed around with the seas, however everything was pretty normal and expected at this point even if we had bigger waves then I had hoped this early.
The seas were rough enough that the thought of doing anything other than actively sailing (Captain) or being at hand as 1st mate (myself) there isn’t much to do. It is hard to do much else honestly except stare off to the horizon, or try and nap if your stomach can handle it. Cory had quickly changed jobs from 2nd mate to “head over the rail green” by the second hour. Captain for a short while contemplated taking out the reef and giving us more sail. We had wind, just not quite enough and the seas were tossing us. He ended up leaving the reef in with the thought of “it is much easier to take off later if things really die, but putting it back on will be nearly impossible and puts my crew at risk.” This turned out to be a wise choice. As the winds did build. According to Ryan later we were probably feeling apparent winds of 30+, according to his instruments, but I really like to try and ignore that I heard that number!!!
We were taking on good sea spray and that meant that the portals got closed on the windward side. I noticed water coming in the lee portals as well, so all of Ciara got battened up. Thankfully I had pre-prepped and the top hatches were already closed.
I headed to the V-Berth. Not to really nap but to find a comfortable place to just sit. The boat is full now and the kids take up a lot of free sitting area. Bert had drawn the long straw today and had the low side berth, the best seat aboard. I noted Bert was actually laying more on the back side of his berth then the bottom meaning we were heeling enough that the backside of his bunk was now the more horizontal plane. As I laid in the V-Berth I noticed some new leaks as we were also now taking green water over the bow exposing new way for small drips to come in. I enjoyed listening to the splishy splash of waves hitting the hatch above me. While enjoying the air time in the V-Berth (yes, actually air time!) Ciara slammed down hard on a wave. Ciara has never belly flopped! Being a full-length keel, we usually slice through waves really well. Today was going to prove to not be a usually day. The thunk was so unexpected that even Kona, who usually lays faithfully at Captains feet, got up and quickly went down below in to say“peace out guys, I’m not dealing with this.” I quickly got out of the berth as Captain was calling and frankly, I was getting up after that anyhow. Remember me saying things can go bad fast? Thankfully, nothing bad, but things needed attention. We had taken so much green water over the bow with that drop that our dock lines were now in the water and not coiled nicely on deck. I donned my heavy-duty life jacket, clipped in and went up deck to retrieve them. It was a quick job to pull them in and back on the high side. I secured them by tying them to the side stanchions. I came back to the cockpit soaking wet to see Cory making their first overboard offering to King Triton for the day.
What followed was a 6-hour sail turned into 8. We were making great time moving around 5 knots in heavy winds only to be slowed down to less the knot when the waves hit. They were steep. Steepest waves we have ever encountered. This is what makes the Great Lakes way sportier than ocean sailing, or so I’m told. Some as high as 7 feet! Watching the horizon pitch forward back from sea/sky/sea/sky is something else. Looking at the pictures and seeing the horizon pitched 20 degrees or more to Ciara is another. Sometimes the seas would form a u-shape around us and then just fall out, sending Ciara on a 5-foot free fall, just like the first time when I was down below. I had to go up deck another time and rescue a solar panel and resecure it. I had to rescue our life ring which kept trying to escape up around the flag pole many times with the boat hook until finally it just tied a big knot with the flag and gave up the will to try escaping anymore.
Drawers down below came out, despite being secured. Everything on Captains side of the V-Berth fell into the bed (that has never happened!) and sea spray left the gangway damp and needing mopping frequently. Our dishwater basin was so tipped over that it was leaking up and over onto the counter and then onto the floor and into the bilge. I tried pouring it down the drain but even then, it wouldn’t go down the drain because the drain was in the middle of the sink and all the water was pooled on the low side. I ended up propping up the basin with a coke can and making it “level” to the seas. Our bilge pump was going off hourly as we had our anchor locker open on deck and water was going in there every time we took on green water. Kona girl did amazing. She kept her head on Cory while they battled the non-stop vertigo. One of our friends from our new marina was actually sailing downwind back from Fayette and we passed them along the way. They hailed us on the radio saying they could see our bow wake more then us. We were a sight to see, all while they just surfed gently the other direction. I’m sure their ride was full of “wheeeee!” The coast guard came on ship radio came with a “small vessel warning” and we pondered “are we a small vessel?” hahaha. The joke is if you have to ask, you probably are. However, we were out in it and doing really well. And that is the kicker of today. As big as these seas were and as high as the winds did get, Ciara performed remarkably! Never once did we feel overpowered and even though we were getting tossed around like laundry in the washing machine. She was strong and happy and was stabilizing us more then we even knew. I shutter to think how much worse today would have been had we had to motor into these waters.
The day dragged on. I’d look at our chart and think “did we even move?” Our eta just kept feeling like it was always 3 hours away. Cory had puked a total of 6 times, almost as predictable as the bilge pump going off every hour. I sat watching, memorized by, the green water rushing down the deck deep enough that it went over the toe rail which is about 5 inches deep. Sloshing back and forth until it eventually drained down the scuppers, only to be refilled by the next monster wave. Glad now I shut both sides of the portals as that water would have been going IN Ciara otherwise. Our decks were surely going to be very clean after today! At one point I was sitting in the cockpit on the floor with Kona and Captain said “I’m really going to enjoy that ice cold b…” But before he could say beer, confused seas came out of nowhere and slapped him across the face. We broke into laughter. How dare we tempt King Triton early! We should know better!
Eventually though. we heard a familiar voice on the ship radio as our good friend Ryan hailed us from Fayette. They had us on their looking glass for the last two hours. Seeing only our loaded mast and white sea spray. It was a great relief to hear him and have him give us the conditions at the harbor. Both Captain and I had started to realize these sails had to come down and the seas were unforgiving. There really wasn’t going to be a good lee for us to tuck up into for calm seas. Cory, 2nd mate, was out of commission which meant I needed to promote Bert for a job he has never done (frankly, I had never worked this jib either!) in rough seas.
I gave Bert a step by step of what we needed to do. I told him the seas were going to be big and how to fully use his clips on his life jacket. To always give the boat a secure hand while using the other to do work. That while things need to get done quickly while up deck he must first always know where his body is and think five steps ahead of where sails and lines may go and to make sure he isn’t in their path.
As the slag beach from Fayette came closer into view, we could see our friends ashore. There seemed to be a crowd that had come to watch, but I focused my attention to the job at hand. Bert at the bow, I dropped the jib just in time for Captain to do his maneuvers to keep us from going any closer to shore. The main came down next and I escorted Bert back to the safety of the cockpit with the job complete. From down below I hear over the radio “That was one fine show of seamanship” from Captain Ryan. Memories from the movie Apollo 13 came to me. When the capsule reappeared with its parachutes deployed, safely returning her crew to earth; cheers from space command filled my soul. I felt like a hero. I beamed at pride at Bert who really stepped up his game.
The jib was down but not secure to the deck and was already trying to work its way back up the front stay so I went back up on deck and gave everyone on shore a show as I lashed it down all while taking green water 7-10 feet above my head and kissing the water with the anchor as we dipped down. My knees came off the deck with every dip. Wheeee, I’m an astronaut!
Captain brought us into the lee of Fayette Harbor. While we were the only boat here a few weeks ago, we now were being greeted with a whole marina of salty folks standing at our dock to welcome us. I think we were the only boat to come in today, for good reason. The strangers were drying to meet this crazy crew. Captain held the boat against the wind while Bert, Cory and I prepared the lines and fenders, looking like a calm and collected crew. All set, we docked with no issues as the wind just guided us right in and we had lots of shore help to catch our lines.
Captain Ryan was there with Gin and Juice for Captain and I in hand and jokes of Captain Ron were abundant as we stepped ashore and had a celebratory drink right away. My hair was wild. We were all drenched. Teresa laughed as my cilantro managed to stay on deck all day and not even look like it broke a sweat. Our anchor was sitting on its side (!) on its bow roller indicating that yes, we did completely submerge the anchor at least once. Captain said we dunked it at least 30 times. At least she is clean! Ryan, who also teaches sailing, said he was super proud to see all of us in proper safety gear and told us how all the other boaters/sailors were highly impressed to see a family crew working the ship (and well), and on a day like today! Teresa sent me photos and videos of our epic seamanship and my heart stopped to see how big that water coming over me looked like from shore.
The kids all got off the boat as soon as we were secure. Cory had a free pass for sure! Dani took Kona and they all checked out the park. What a tease as we have to leave tomorrow. We do hope to return here on our return and have a full day here.
We enjoyed the much-needed drinks and Ryan made plans to join us for dinner. Chatting with everyone at shore and getting the boat all put back together (our life lines are full of wet towels and blankets and clothes now) I saw that it was almost 9pm! I pulled out my trumpet and played Last Post and Taps. We got ship horns as gratitude afterwards. I have horn envy now as our trawler next to us sounded much bigger than he was!
As we all sat down at the table for dinner, I noticed that kids had come alive from the day and were talkative and engaged. The excitement of surviving the non-stop beating had left us all with some adrenaline. We gave a toast to the crew before we ate. We toasted Dani for staying calm and crawling around Ciara when needed on their first sail of the season. We toasted Cory for being in good spirits all day despite being green and not being able to do anything. We toasted Bert for stepping up his game and a remarkable job under pressure. The kids toasted Captain for safe passage and me for holding the boat together all day. That flank steak I had marinated earlier this morning tasted amazing. Ryan brought potatoes and carrots that were perfect. There were no left overs. My heart was full as the boat was full of family and friends. It felt like the peak of our sailing season last year. The crew has grown up on Ciara and she has not only taught us how to sail she has brought us closer together as a family.
After dinner the kids basically begged for the chore hat sorting ceremony. We explained the reasoning behind the chore hat and they took tuns drawing their chores, about 6 each. Some are daily, some are as needed or when certain conditions apply. It is their duty to be aware of them and for us not to ask them to do them. We explained that we are all crew and even though chores are assigned as their responsibility that Captain and I would also offer to help out here and there and encouraged them all to work as a team all summer as well. After the chores were pulled only one exchange was made. Dani traded the weekly chore of cleaning the head for the every other day chore of vacuuming. Good trade. In the end the gods of random did well. Cory ended up with a lot of the heavy lifting chores, something they like and none of the kids felt they were being more overburdened then their siblings. In fact, they really like to know what is expected of them. I do as well, it means I don’t have to always be the one throwing commands around and we feel like a crew as a whole.
Seeing how we didn’t secure Ciara until 7:30pm by the time dinner and dishes were done the evening had quickly become nearly midnight. We walked Kona, did a quick weather and social media check up at the brothel, I mean hotel, where the wifi is located. We chatted about the day and debriefed. We both agreed that was for sure top 3 of our biggest/hardest/roughest sea sails. We also agreed in our breakdown talk that the day went really well. Somehow my back didn’t like the constant pounding and I could feel I was sore from the hard work up on deck in big seas. The temps are now at 53 instead of the 78 from last night. I suspect I will not take long to find sleep.
